Day 5 of my solo hike through the Grand Canyon, March 18, 2021, has me completing the Escalante Route and beginning the climb in elevation along the Tonto Trail.
The Papago Wall
The morning started early, it was still dark when I awoke and climbed out of the tent. It was another chilly morning, and I slept well. Breakfast today was just going to be a power bar as I wanted to get moving.
As I was packing up camp I watched the group of mountain goats (“the kids”) head up Papago Wall. I was curious to the route they’d take. They took the left approach. They seemed to struggle with it just a little bit, as if they were having difficulty seeing the most logical route. But then they were up and I finsihed up camp chores. I should’ve kept watching…….
I chose to go the route on the further route, it was actually quite easy, just took my time, was at the top in a matter of minutes. That’s where I should’ve kept watching the goats…..I took what I thought was the trail, made it to where I cliffed out, it was obvious I wasn’t on the right route. I headed back and kept trying to find the correct route. I was getting frustrated at this point, wasting lots of time wandering around.
Finally I walked all the way back to where the routes come on top of the wall to basically start over. Found the path up the last little push and was on my way. So frustrating……
Papago Slide
Immediately following the Papago Wall is the Papago Slide. When I was planning for this trip I kept hearing about both obstacles and had a little anxiety about both. Just like anything else you encounter on the trails, patience and a keen eye is all it takes to avercome these over-hyped obstacles. I’m not saying they weren’t difficult, I just worried about them more than I needed to.
I stood at the top of the slide and surveyed the area ahead of me. At first its just a jumble of rocks, but then I could spot a slight path, then a cairn or two. I visualized myself going along the route, and picked out what I’d hope to be key landmarks once I was up close and personal to it – it always looks very different once you’re in it than it did from up top.
I took my time, weaved back and forth and had zero issues navigating this obstacle.
Tonto Trail
Shortly afer navigating the Papago Slide you come upon Hance Rapids. This is your last chance to get water until Hance Creek. I was still completely full from Papago Creek, so I just continued on.
This marks the end of the Escalante Route. From Hance Rapids you can either head up the New Hance Trail to the Rim, or continue on the Tonto Trail. For a shorter trip, camping at Papago Creek or here at Hance Rapids sets you up for a 6.5 mile hike out. Downside to this exit point is there is no parking there.
Now the real slog begins….hot, gradual climb along the Tonto. The trail was easy to follow, absolutely no issues at all. It was just hot, very little shade, and zero water. All day long was the sound of tourist helicopters flying overhead – I have to think I’m in a few dozen photos out there as the little spec on the trail.
Hance Creek
I finally start to see some greenery, so I knew I was nearing Hance Creek. And good timing too….I was wanting to finish the last of my water. Alternating between water and Lemon Lime Gatorade was working well again today. I didn’t eat a ton, made myself stop whenever I found some shade and eat some trail mix or a Snickers bar.
As I approached Hance Creek it was the most people I’ve seen the entire trip. This was a popular place, and for obvious reasons: water and shade. I spotted the mountain goats from earlier setting up camp.
I filtered 4 liters of water and had lunch – Justin’s Chocolate Hazelnut and Almond Butter on a tortilla. Just like the last time, I didn’t care for it. Sorry, Justin, it’s good stuff but it won’t make my food bag next time.
I drank 1 liter of water, filtered another and packed up. This would be the last reliable water source for the remainder of the route out as I was continuing up the Hance Creek Trail to Horseshoe Mesa. Reports did say Page (Miners) Spring was running and accessible, so I knew I’d have one more chance at water if I needed it.
Hance Creek Trail
Steep. Hot. That’s about the only words I could muster at this point. It was just a long, slow climb. I think it took me 1.5 hours to go just over a mile. Since I knew Page Springs was accessible I downed a liter of water and wet my Buff around my neck. It was slow going over some decently rocky terrain. Easy to follow, just tough.
I took the side trail down to Page Springs, it wasn’t horrible by any means, and nicely shaded and cool. The shelf above the spring pool had collasped a year or so ago, but it’s still accessible. I thought I had read warnings about the water quality here, but as I searched while writing this, I couldn’t find such notes. I only needed to refill 1-liter. The water tasted absolutely horrible….I was hoping I wouldn’t need it afterall. I only had one Gatorade powder left, figured I could try to offset the taste if I needed to.
I got my water, enjoyed the shade and started the trek up.
The trail continued up and was steep. As you get more near Horseshoe Mesa you start to see more mining equipment. At was at this point on the trail I thought about the miners that worked this area and thought how that was a special breed of folks, tough as nails. The trail through here was easy to follow, but rough, and steep.
Horseshoe Mesa
I finally reached the top. I was so tired and ready to be done for the day. This was by far the longest and most difficult day.
Once reaching ‘flat’ ground it was time to find a place to camp. There are 3 camping areas with multiple tent sites in each, and 2 composting toilets in this area. A little further on there is a group camp area with larger, more open sites.
I walked around a little, passing the first camp site, saw the 2nd and 3rd that I could tell offered amazing views of the Canyon beyond. There were already tents setup in both of those, and while each site can accommodate several tents with space in between, I opted for the first site with no one at it. I would be the only camper there that night. Horseshoe Mesa was really pretty, and a great campsite for the night. This would be a nice overnight down\up Grandview Trail just to get some exposure to the Canyon.
Of course I broke out the last of my cheese and sausage as a well-deserved snack. I didn’t eat a ton today, so this really hit the spot. See? I’m still smiling!
Dinner was pizza roll-ups again. I did not want to have a dinner requiring water, and this too was really good. Another favorite from the trip that will be a staple in the food bag.
I laid around camp this evening, just unwinding, journaling, and enjoying the bittersweet feeling of knowing this was my last night of solitude. Tomorrow I rejoin civilization.
When hiking alone and in desolate places you get used to certain sounds, and lack of others. All day I had heard the tourist helicopters buzzing overhead, but they had stopped as the sun was setting. I heard the familiar sound of a helicopter, but then I realized it sounded differently. Looking around I saw it hovering over Grandview Point where I would be exiting. It hovered for 10-15 minutes, then left.
Not much later the helicopter reappeared, this time with a rescue basket underneath. I quickly fired up the Satellite Communicator and shot a quick note to my wife: SAR in the area, not me, I’m ok!
I watched for a while as the basket was lowered over the edge of the Rim, and eventually was pulled up. The helicopter then moved and lowered the basket to the ground, then disappeared into the horizon.
I would find out from a tour guide when I got back to the Rim that a woman and her boyfriend were visiting. She went missing, and 4-hours later he called for help. She had fallen off the edge. I have searched and searched and find no record of the incident, so I do not know the details. Regardless, it makes you stop, think and be thankful.
Route Map and Retrospective
12 crazy miles today!! HOT and STEEP pretty much sums up the day. The trails were easy to follow, no concern of getting lost. Water would definitely be an issue in hotter weather. It would be well worth the effort to cache some water somewhere along the Grandview Trail, or pay some day hiker to do it for you (that’s putting a LOT of faith in a stranger!)
Besides getting lost for 45 minutes on the Papago Wall, it was a straight-forward hike. Just a long slog…..
